The steak and cheese sandwich at the new Michael Landrum restaurant . . . Steak and Cheese. (Justin Rude/The Washington Post)On Wednesday, a few weeks after closing Ray’s Hell Burger Too, Michael Landrum (of Ray’s the Steaks fame) opened something new in the same North Arlington strip-mall bay. Called Steak and Cheese, the enterprise presents a simple sandwich made well, and nothing else, with no illusions to any regional specification or authenticity. “We absolutely do not serve ‘Philly’ anything or ‘cheesesteaks,’ ” claims a sign on a fridge next to the cash register. “We do not claim or attempt to be anyone’s idea of ‘authentic.’ ”

Diners familiar with the Ray’s Hellburger Too setup won’t be confused by the cash-only counter service at Steak and Cheese. Place your order in the back at a register for the sandwich, which is composed of a half-pound of Angus and Hereford rib-eye and top sirloin, spanish onion, American and provolone cheese, lettuce and tomato. It’s served on a Lyon Bakery sub roll and runs $10.99. Green peppers, sauteed mushrooms and charred jalapenos are available for 50 cents each. Hellburger fans will also be comforted by the restaurant’s only side: $2 worth of tater tots.

The sandwich itself is generously sized, with a nice balance of gooey cheese and salty beef and a roll that provides a nice chew. I ordered a second sub with the charred jalapenos, and the Ray’s team didn’t skimp on the heat, which adds a kick to the equation that I would highly recommend.

Amy McKeever at Eater has more on the surprise opening and its owner’s love for his chosen sub roll.